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General Discussion / 1977 xs500 restoration
« Last post by lumpy252 on June 09, 2019, 07:34:28 PM »
hello all I could not resist buying this 1977 xs500 as it looks just like one I owned in the eighties . As the picture shows it is in poor condition as the British climate is very damp and metal dose not always last well as the rusty tank shows. i have rebuilt the calipers with stainless pistons and new seals as the seized brakes were giving me stress when pushing it around. The electrics are a nightmare and this will be a long job to sort though the nostalgia involved will inspire me to see it through.
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Engine & Transmission / Re: starter clutch more of the same tx trouble
« Last post by lumpy252 on June 09, 2019, 07:00:49 PM »
hi again just thought I would post a picture of the correct tool (flywheel puller) for the removal of the rotor as the gear puller method is not ideal . The taper on the end is essential to lift the rotor from the recess on the shaft.
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Electrical / Re: static timing/points adjustment
« Last post by mvluv13 on May 28, 2019, 04:01:32 AM »
Glad to hear you got it running.
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Electrical / Re: static timing/points adjustment
« Last post by The gizmo on May 26, 2019, 02:04:56 AM »
Great news. Today it fired up. Run alright. Responsive throttle. I put my old coils and condenser back on. Solid spark. Took a bit of cranking for it to fire up. Thanks a million for all the feed back and patience from everyone with my lack of experience knowledge and terminology. Few loose ends to button up and were ready for the road!
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Electrical / Re: static timing/points adjustment
« Last post by mvluv13 on May 24, 2019, 11:04:47 PM »
Apart from the battery voltage, start looking downstream of the newtronics system. Check continuity of HT leads, coils and grounding strap to case. I upgraded coils on mine and it made a small difference to spark but a noticeable difference to running.
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Electrical / Re: static timing/points adjustment
« Last post by The gizmo on May 20, 2019, 01:55:53 PM »
so I figured out what my misunderstanding was...I was caught up on the fact the red and white wire off the switching unit had a male/female jumper lead off the end of it. but that's just power in to the box. so that had to be spliced in with the ignition feed to the rest of the bike....kit is all set up. statically timed. lights on box go off as each cylinder reaches firing marks. now, however, I have spark at each spark plug. but the spark is very weak...now to figure that out....
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Electrical / Re: static timing/points adjustment
« Last post by CrouchyUK on May 18, 2019, 01:22:21 PM »
Its the terminology that can get you drifting away from understanding what is going on  ;)  You are not hooking the red/white up to either coil- you are merely using the same ignition live feed to the coils- they are both fed from this common feed and the ignition circuit only seperates after the coils- the orange and grey circuits.  So yes- you can use the Newtronics male/female sub harnes to splice into either coil feed.
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Electrical / Re: static timing/points adjustment
« Last post by The gizmo on May 18, 2019, 12:36:42 PM »
Yeah the light on the unit turns off as  each cylinder reaches its firing mark. I'm not by any means an electrically inclined person so I need very basic terminology for it lol. I understand how the plates and sensors work together my only issue right now is just the red and white wire. So that can be hooked up to just one coil? It doesnt need to be hooked to both? Does it matter which coil its connected to?
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Electrical / Re: static timing/points adjustment
« Last post by CrouchyUK on May 18, 2019, 09:12:16 AM »
You mean you have it statically timed so that each LED goes off at the correct mark for EACH cylinder firing mark?  Remember you effectively have 2 separate ignition systems on these engines, firing at different times 180 crankshaft degrees apart.  This is 90 degrees apart on the camshaft and timing plate- hence the 90 degree offset for each points set and now the Newtronics sensors.  If you understand the theory and how it should work- it is easier to install and troubleshoot- points or Newtronics.

The red/white is the power feed to the Newtronics box only- it can be connected to either coil feed or indeed any ignition live cable.  The Newtronics box then imitates the action of the points by grounding or interrupting the coils return path to frame through either the orange or grey wire (left and right coil return), via its blue lead with tag.

One caveat with the Newtronics which is otherwise an excellent system- even more so you need to take care not to leave the ignition switched on and engine stopped- you will cook the coils.....
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Electrical / Re: static timing/points adjustment
« Last post by The gizmo on May 18, 2019, 05:36:35 AM »
Well I scrapped the idea of using the points and got the newtronics kit from yam bits. I have it 99% hooked up. Its statically times and light goes off right at firing mark. However I'm a little stumped with the red/white wire going to the coils. There's a red/white wire lead off the newtronics box that has a jumper at the end. One end has a Male plug in and the other is female. Each coil has one Male and one female from it. Do I plug each red/white lead from the box to one coil? Or Male to one coil and female to the other?  I guess I'm just not understanding the diagram correctly...
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